Hannah the hiker

I woke up early on day 49 intending to leave Mazama Village by 7:30. But my portable charger and lamp were taking forever to charge so I ended up leaving at 9:45. It was nice to leave a little later though because the store opened at 9 so I was able to have coffee before I left. As I was drinking my coffee waiting around, a guy camping at the campground came and talked with me. He said “you look like a backpacker!” So I told him about hiking the PCT SOBO and all. He just said “wow I wish I did that kind of thing when I was your age, I wish I met you 30 years ago” and then he said “you’re adorable.” I swear people say the strangest things sometimes. I thanked him for the compliment and we just talked a bit about my adventures so far. I’ve noticed that once people find out I’m backpacking the trail they have so many questions, get personal pretty quickly, and are super supportive and offer advice. I do get the odd compliment sometimes like I got from this guy too. When I was back on trail I met some day hikers who wanted to know about my trip. They were so nice and said “good for you!” I love those interactions where people are just so excited for you, sometimes more than I am.

There weren’t any water sources for about 17 miles of the trail so I carried 4 liters from the village. It wasn’t too bad to carry all the water, I was glad to have it since it was so hot out. I took a lunch break around 2 and had some tasty peanut butter and honey tortilla sandwiches. The trail was exposed through most of this stretch because of all the burnt trees. It wasn’t too much up and down either so it was pretty easy walking. I met a couple northbound hikers along the way.

About a mile from my campsite I noticed a bunch of little things moving on the trail. When I looked closer I realized there were several little frogs hopping around. They were tiny! About the size of my thumbnail and all over the place. I tried so hard not to step on any but at one point they completely covered the trail and I’m sad to say I probably did kill a few. I got to my campsite around 6:50, I hiked 20.20 miles. I felt really happy to get 20 miles in coming out of a town, and to get to camp well before it got dark out. I was able to wash up in the stream and hang out with the frogs. I ate my dinner and there were a couple stray frogs hanging out on my sleeping bag which was kind of cute, I just hoped they wouldn’t be there during the night because I didn’t want to hurt anymore of them.

Day 50! Crazy to think I’ve been at this for 50 days already! It was a good day. I left camp by 6:30 and started the climb for the day. It was about 3 miles up to 7,300 feet. It went by quicker than I thought! The day hadn’t warmed up yet so it was the perfect cool weather for going uphill. I had amazing views of the surrounding mountains including Devils Peak. I saw that there was a side trail that led to the summit and I seriously considered going up. I decided not to though because I couldn’t see the last bit of trail and it looked a bit more like climbing than hiking. I wish I had at least gone up to take a look though, I regretted not going up within minutes of passing the trail. So, I decided to hike up “Shale Butte” when the trail got to it. It was a fun little side climb to do without my pack on.

I kept on walking and had great views for a majority of the day. I felt great too, my feet and legs weren’t all that sore since I’ve been stretching more when I take breaks and set up camp for the night. I hiked til 12 and then took a lunch break. At this point I hiked 11.5 miles. I thought I would get more in before lunch but was still happy with my progress. I took an hour to relax and let my shoes air out. After packing up I headed to the next water source which was “Christi’s spring.” I don’t know who Christi is but I definitely appreciated the spring! It was the first source I came to on the trail after 12 miles. It was super cold and felt refreshing to drink. I sat there for a bit just drinking water and enjoying the shade. After feeling well hydrated I continued on to do the last couple miles to my campsite. It was a little bit of up and down but not too terrible. This part of the trail was more in the woods too so the sun wasn’t too hot.

I got to Freye Lake at 6. The lake isn’t marked as a campsite on my map but after reading some good comments I thought I’d check it out. It was a quarter mile off trail. There were a bunch of spots to camp and not many mosquitos because of the several dragonflies. I set up camp and washed up in the lake which was also the perfect temperature, not too hot and not too cold. I met a woman camping at the lake with her two horses. She’s hiking the PCT northbound with them! Apparently you can hike with a horse on the entirety of the trail. She and I talked for a bit about our trips and how things are going. I always thought that having a horse would make this whole thing a bit easier but she told me all the work that goes into it. For one thing her pack still has be pretty light since the horse is carrying her, the saddle, pack, rope, water, feed, and hay or pellets. She also, obviously, can’t hitchhike and needs someone to drive her truck and trailer to towns so she can resupply. Her horses need about 40 liters of water a day as well, which I imagine can be pretty difficult when the trail is so dry in Oregon. It made me reconsider how “easy” hikers with horses have it.

To celebrate day 50 I had a payday for dessert and went to bed by 8. I did 22 miles on this day.

On day 51 I hiked 27 miles! I left Freye Lake by 7 and had nice views of Mount McCloughlin on the way out. The trail to the summit was 3 miles up and about 3,000 feet in elevation gain. I wish I had planned a bit better because it would have been fun to go up and summit that mountain.

Around 10 am I heard some people walking behind me and turned to see a couple. They were both SOBOS that started July 12. We walked together to the shelter with a water source about 8 miles ahead. We talked the whole way, it was nice to hear how their hike had been going so far and who they’ve met. We had lunch at the shelter and hung out for about an hour and a half. There was a picnic table we could sit at which was pretty nice. The water at the pump was super cold too which was a real treat after a 14 mile water carry.

I had planned on only doing 6 more miles for the day. This would have meant a long water carry too because the next source was 13 miles ahead. But the SOBOS I met planned on hiking to the next source at Klum landing campground so I decided I’d do the same. The miles were pretty easy but I had some blisters forming on my toes again which made it a bit uncomfortable. I got to the campground around 7:45. There were real bathrooms, showers, outlets, potable water, and campsites with picnic tables! All for $4 a night. This was my first time taking a shower actually on the trail. Taking a shower was such a treat after my biggest mile day so far. I stayed up a little late just talking with the couple I met, turns out they learned how to play euchre on the trail from another New York hiker. I thought it was neat that they knew the game since I haven’t met many people outside of my family who know it.

Day 52 was another good day. I left Klum Landing around 7:30 and started hiking for the day. I said a temporary goodbye to Kelly and Frank since they were going to be stopping g at Hyatt Lake for lunch. I walked about 4 miles and met a father and son who were out hunting together. He asked me what trail I was hiking on, I don’t think they realized they were on the PCT.

I went another 4 miles and crossed the road that takes you to Hyatt Lake. The restaurant owners had their menu posted on the wooden trailhead. Very smart marketing. They will even pick you up if you give them a call. I saw their breakfast options and was tempted to go in but ultimately resisted.

I went another 5 miles to my lunch spot for the day. I got there around 1 and saw a bunch of deer around the water. I just quietly set up my little spot and ate near them. I only took an hour break before starting up again. I was feeling pretty good on this day so I didn’t want to slow down my progress.

The trail went over these great rolling bluffs with views of the towns below and surrounding hills. It was really pretty with the afternoon sun on all the dried grass.

There were a couple turkeys walking in the woods and when they heard me they started running down the trail. That was funny to watch.

I also saw some lizards hanging out on the rocks, I haven’t seen those on the trail before.

I loved the views in this part of the trail. And it wasn’t even that hot out during the day, it might have gotten up to 75 which is pretty cool compared to recent temperatures.

I did 9 miles after lunch to my campsite for the night. It was a piped spring with nice and cold water, pretty refreshing. I was able to relax for a while before going to sleep sine I got here at 6:30. I read my book and enjoyed the cell service. The SOBO couple I met the day before rolled in around 8 with one of the people they hiked with earlier on the trail. It was fun talking with them about their day and meeting a new SOBO. The new guy, “Juicy” is from New York too! We talked a bit about hiking in New York, and people we might know from each other’s towns. He’s the first SOBO New Yorker I have met, I think it’s kinda cool. I had a pretty filling dinner of mac and cheese and ramen. I was getting into town the next day so I didn’t need the extra dinner meal.

On day 53 I headed 9.5 miles to Ashland, my last stop in Oregon. I left camp around 7 and said see ya later to the SOBO couple and Juicy since we planned to meet for lunch on our zero.

I walked about 4.5 miles and got to the Pilot Rock trail around 9. I had looked at some comments about the trail and decided I’d try to go for the summit. It was about half a mile with 480 feet of elevation gain. The approach to the climb was a bunch of switchbacks and then there were some scrambling bits. I’ve done some bouldering and had some tough scrambles in the Adirondacks so I felt prepared. I ditched my pack and started for the climb. It was going great and felt pretty easy until I got to this one crack. I felt that I could pull myself up and keep going to the summit, but getting back down would be a lot tougher. I kept trying different routes but it all just came down to if I could come back down without hurting myself. I tried for about 45 minutes and was getting so frustrated. I so badly wanted to get to the top and have some views of Mt. Shasta. But I ultimately stopped trying and walked back down. That was the first time I’ve ever had to turn back from trying to reach the top of a peak and it sucked. I tried not to beat myself up too badly about it since it was a smart move to go back down. Even though I couldn’t get to the top it was still a lot of fun to scramble a little bit instead of just walk. And I think that’s what is important, having fun. I didn’t want to share that I didn’t reach the top at first but I think that’s important too, to admit when something is beyond your capabilities. I ran into a group of four people going to the top of Pilot rock and they asked me how it was. I let them know I didn’t get to the top and they said “yeah it’s tough if you’re on your own.” I wished them good luck, they’ve gone to the top a couple times before.

I only had 4 miles left to go until old highway 99 at this point and they were “cruisey” miles. Mostly downhill and still lots of cell service. I called my dad and talked with him to pass the time.

I reached the road at about 11:30 and walked another half mile to get to where the road connects with the highway. I took my pack off, put on my biggest smile, and stuck my thumb out hoping for a ride. I waited about half an hour before a van did a u turn for me. The guy let me know he helps PCT Hikers out for rides often but wouldn’t be able to drive me for a couple hours. He gave me his card though and said I’d probably get a ride soon. Then 10 minutes later a car pulled up and the four people I met at Pilot Rock were inside. They asked me where I was headed and said they were also going to Ashland. They were even headed to the same street I was! It worked out great. Two of the guys live in Poughkeepsie, New York but are from Oregon. They gave me recommendations for restaurants and where to get a good banana split.

I got the the trail angels house I arranged to stay with around 12:30. I showered, washed my clothes, and figured out my plan for the day. I headed downtown to get a sandwich with a lot of veggies in it, then went to some bookstores, a thrift store, finally got a banana split, and then bought a salad and fruit from the grocery store. It was a fun day. At the bookstore I was able to trade “Crooked House” in and get a $3 store credit. I asked the cashier if they happened to have “Tracks” by Robyn Davidson, and they did! I’ve been wanting to read this book for so long and I was able to buy it used for just $5. I was over the moon. The movie that’s based on the book is in my top 5 favorite movies. They had a bunch of Mary Oliver poem collections too which I was close to buying but decided one book is heavy enough for my backpack.

I liked walking around downtown Ashland, it seemed like such a cool place. The Shakespeare festival was happening too but I missed the free show for that day.

When I got back to the house I hung out with the trail angel Crossword and his dog Bella for a bit. It was fun to talk about our adventures on the trail and our “regular” lives.

I got to sleep in a real bed all to myself which was a real treat too.

Today I am taking the day off and running some errands before heading back on trail tomorrow. I’m also having lunch at an Indian buffet with some new trail friends, I’m jazzed.

I have 26.9 miles until I’m at the border of Oregon and California! I’m currently at mile 935 of the trail, almost at the halfway point. I’m thinking I might even send the body of my tent home and just keep the rain fly since I haven’t set it up in a while. Less weight on my back, the better!